Cold War Burning

GOOD MORNING VIETNAMMMMMM……………

Okay, who remembers that daily dispatch and the later movie?

I’m throwing another thought out today, and this is due to my new friend from Vietnam, a young man just beginning his working life, Mr. Van Giap, due again to his recommendation.

Yes, I agree, Vietnam has changed, but is it for the better? My opinion is that communism has taken Vietnam down a pitiful infrastructure road. The transportation system around Saigon has left the air so polluted the people cannot breath? I have talked to many local folks and those visiting, and nobody disagrees on this subject. Apparently, few if any emission standards are enforced, for I have seen one vehicle after another, small and large, all belching out smoke screens. The building of an ”urban sprawl,” along most all the roads I traveled has a nation breathing in clouds of pollution during the day and worse at night when the big vehicles are on the road. There is need for “change” and much more work to be done, and it seems from talking to others that the Party is slowly loosening its arms around one area of control, and it is private ownership. My Swedish friends thought that included “land” to use as intended, even for foreigners, however, the Party still owns the land. Maybe communism will fall here in Vietnam the way it fell in Europe and Asia, upon its own disastrous ways.

For my fictional novel, which takes place in 2004 and 2005, I do not see much change to how my manuscript depicts Vietnam today. If anything, Vietnam is worse than I even imagined. The scene of the old man a few days ago at the area I was stationed during the war leads me to believe much more is happening behind the scenes than this old tourist dare believe. The Baptist couple down in Saigon working with the Hmong tribes in the Highlands only confirms that point more. The Swedes and the guy from New Zealand said it was not easy working with the Vietnamese officials. Something is going on here under the watchful eyes of Party officials, and I cannot seem to find a way to get to the bottom of it all. Maybe to protect those involved in this political change, I should not stick my nose in further.

Another thought. I have asked a few Vietnamese about sightings of Americans who might have stayed behind after the war. I talked to all my guides and my special guide down here in Quang Ngai, abbreviated “QN,” I should finally explain what the QN stands for, right? Nobody seemed to believe so, but then, how much information has really been passed out by the Party. The friend of the old man at Tu Binh lead me into a group discussion that left more questions than answers. I asked my guide about reported American soldiers that had deserted, and if any of them stayed behind. I specifically asked about the “Salt & Pepper” duo, the Army and Marine guys who were working with the enemy in and around QN. He knew who I was speaking of, but I failed to get a clear answer from him. Something was up. I write of Salt & Pepper in my fictional story, and gave them the benefit of the doubt. I depicted them returning home to America under tight embassy control. Whether that actually happened, it appears maybe not.

And, if I have not explained the word use of  ”Party,” it is the local Communist Party Committee. I see the old red flag flying over the fronts of many buildings, some look to be private homes, and others could be local governing groups. What surprises me is the total lack of activity around any of these party buildings. It is like are all off on vacation, or have left or something. No vehicles, or people. Well, today in Hoi An, I did see an office with a desk and someone sitting behind the desk, so there must be Commie life somewhere. If they get hold of this blog of mine, I might see much more life. I’m waiting… come on, make my day.

Yes, change is needed here in Vietnam. I know “CHANGE” is the buzz word for back home as well, with my President who might not have been elected without that simple word pouring a single thought through many voters veins as they made their selection for the next Commander in Chief. I should not be counted in that voting group for McCain/Palin was my ticket for success.

Folks, you who have never stepped out of the confines of the Continental USA, you really need to do so, to see how good we have it in America. Yeah, we have violence, we have poverty to obesity issues, we have more than our share of problems, but I would dare anyone who has a certain burning against American values, to come to Vietnam and survive in this country for one year. Then come back home and let me hear your complaints. The folks who have traveled extensively to third world countries know what I speak of, but yes, that does not mean we should slacken our will to make America better yet.

Enough of Philosophy, Giap. You got me on a subject I know nothing about.

Today, was the very LAST day of riding in a bus, or on a motor-bike, well, maybe not. I’m taking a private taxi from Hoi An to Danang, and will fly from Danang to Hanoi on Air Vietnam. I just received my air ticket, and was worried in getting a seat, with the big Reunification and Labor Day Holiday coming up while I’m in Hanoi.

This morning, I really did not think I would make it out of Quang Ngai. The tourist office at the My Tra Hotel booked me on a tiny bus without AC, loaded to the hilt with passengers heading north to Danang. I was to be dropped off at a junction on the highway heading to Hoi An, a scenic beach resort on the South China Sea. And the driver did just that, for 100,000 VNDs, or about $6 USDs. Writing this does not give the view I have in my mind, because we have nothing back home that remotely compares to this type of transportation.

I will try and insert pictures to this blog once I return home. I hope the pictures can add to the scene I am trying to describe for my readers. Thanks to my cousin, Richard Polcyn, who hails from Russell, Kansas, for the idea. I can barely get on a computer at this stage, so my pictures will need to wait. I’m keeping my fingers crossed that my old digital camera keeps all 300 pics saved.

I will never get used to this method of transportation. A good friend told me that most third world countries have such road issues. I think WHY? It is sheer craziness. Roads can be built and maintained by the most poverty stricken of countries. QL#1 is worse up here than it was during the war. I know, I rode this stretch from QN to Danang a few times during the war. I have only found one stretch of QL#1, around Nha Trang and Cam Ranh Bay, where the roads were somewhat up to today’s USA standards.

I was looking for the old Americal Division base at Chu Lai on the way north and believe I spotted a couple of yet standing shells of buildings off the highway. The buildings were standing along the sandy hills next to the beach, yet another confirmation to my fictional manuscript.

I was dropped off at the right spot for Hoi An and was immediately surrounded by motor-bikes. Because of my extra large piece of baggage, I needed two bikes, 100,000 VND each to ferry me to Hoi An. That would be upped to 150,000 each once getting into the city and finding out my hotel was further yet. The guys were playing me like an old fiddle, but by this time, after a final crazy bus ride, I just wanted to get to my next hotel. I paid them 300,000 VNDs, or about $17 USDs total, and gave then a crisp one dollar bill as a tip, on top of their padded charge. They knew they got to another old American, but I did not care at this stage. Yes, my wad of crisp and new one dollar bills are the best yet for tipping. The old greenback still means something here.

I’m here in Hoi An for two days to see the sights of this ancient city. I was not here during the war, so my experiences will be fresh and uncut. Below is a photo of the IndoChine Hotel outdoor dining area, next to a water canal inlet.

More later…